Karawari, River Adventures. 30 June

Something has gone terribly wrong with our computer.   Chris McLennan had warned us that he used the generator powered plugs in his room at Karawari, and it fried some of his batteries, so we are nervous about using the power here.   But as we are here 4 days, we pretty much have to rely on the power here.  After plugging in the computer for just a short time, we notice all the functions seem to have become very sluggish.   After some time, we realize that the mouse pad has died, although everything else works, and nothing seems to be missing from the files.   But we are in one of the most remote spots on earth, where Apple Stores and Starbucks have not yet infiltrated.  We shrug, and hope that we can work out a good solution.   In the meantime, we are rationing our memory cards.

Today we head up the Karawari River, and take a side river, the Arafundi.   Here we visit Yimas 2 village, and have a look at the Spirit House there.  No skulls, but it's still interesting, filled with kamumgabbi and masks and unique art and artifacts.   Our guide, Chris, tells us that he has arranged for us to photograph two different "Croc Boys" if we wish.   These are to be paid "photo shoots" if you will, and we pay each of the guys about 50 Kina for 20-30 minutes of "modeling" for us.   They are happy for the work.   We tried all sorts of things, different lighting, flash, no flash, and so on.   We had seen one or two of Chris McLennan's images in Ambua and tried to do something similar.   (Just saw one of Chris's images on his website, completely blew me away.   My images look like something a 2-year old did, by comparison.)   So we take a number of photos of the two guys, Douglas and George, who actually look very much alike.

Crocodile scarred man poses in the Spirit House of Yimas 2
village, with the skull of an enormous crocodile.

Detail of the scarification on the a man's back,
Yimas 2 Village.

It occurs to me that we ought to have asked some critical questions here, such as:  How many guys do this?  Why do they decide to do it?   How long have men been doing this in the Karawari?   Is this the only area where it is done?   But I really cannot answer those questions properly.  

While we are in the men's house (the Spirit House) the keeper of the house, and older man comes in and shows us the "Secret Eye."   We are not allowed to photograph it, but they show it to us.  Normally, women are not allowed into the Spirit House, but because we're white women, we don't count.   Doesn't really make sense to me, but whatever.   Now you are going to wonder, "well then, ok, what the heck is the Secret Eye?   They showed it to us, but honestly, I can't explain it.

After we are thoroughly bamboozled at the Spirit House, we head down the river to Yimas 1 Village.   Here we are shown the bloodstones, with a view to the distant hills and across some swampy lakes (Yimas Lake).   Far in the distance we can see some limestone cliff faces where the Auwim Caves are located, and where the Auwim people stored the skulls of their enemies.

We are told that cannibalism was the norm in this area until the 1920s, and the last cannibalism in this region was in 1934-35.   There was a cannibalism attempt in 1945, but the Australian government put a stop to it.  Yeah, right, whatever.   I would be completely stunned if cannibalism in PNG were completely wiped out, even now.  But I'm guessing there is a rather strict moratorium on cooking up the tourists.

{include photo of sunset at Lodge.}

We head back to the Lodge, and enjoy a gorgeous sunset.   Elijah brings us bowls of popcorn and cups of tea.  Whatever will become of us without Elijah to properly take care of us?

{include photo of Elijah}

Right before dinner, a red-cheeked parrot gets disoriented and climbs in under the eaves of the lodge, ending up in the main dining hall ceiling.

As usual, we see a brilliant array of moths at bedtime, and a parade of geckos feast on as many of them as possible.

{include 2 photos of moths in our room}